Carviya 3 5 6 8 10 15 20 Amp Male Car Cigarette Lighter/Aux Socket Plug Connector 12 Volt With Fuse Diode Indicator (3 Amp)

This is very well made, the mistake a lot of them have is they are injection moulded, this one is made from thermoset of some kind. That means it won't melt too quick when under load for a long time. I was using one on my fridge at 7.5max amp and it melted. So this one fits the bill. Most of the cheap made ones are rated higher than 7.5a but I don't believe they can handle that for hours, the heat builds up and the plastic moves which in turn shorts it and blows the fuse. This one will not.

What can you say about cigarette plugs

It states in the photos that you need to solder, but there is a risk of short circuit depending how you connect the +ve. Recommend, as other people have said, insulate the -ve connector close to the +ve or the +ve solder itself.

By referring to the wiring illustration included with the illustrations on the Amazon page, soldering the connections to one of the plugs was straightforward. However, the fine wire connecting the capacitor in the second plug was found to be broken when the two halves of the plug were separated to make the connection. This had to be soldered back together before the feed wire could be connected. The fragility of this connection is clearly a weakness of the plug's design.Another weakness is that there is no clamp or support for the new connecting wire as it passes through the rubber sleeve, so that any pulling on the wire passes straight to the soldered connections. The hole through the sleeve is much larger in diameter than the fine wires that will normally be connected to these plugs so they flop about; it was possible to improve this somewhat by wrapping insulating tape round and round the wire at the point of entry, then forcing the rubber sleeve over the tape to create a friction fit. That is a major - and avoidable - fault in the design.The plug body itself is sturdy and other components fit together well. However, the two side sprung connectors are perhaps a little too sturdy, and a considerable force is needed to push the connector in to the socket, and to withdraw it, to the extent that I have to support the pull-out panel in which my socket is located with my other hand to avoid straining it: better too tight than too loose though.

These plugs are pretty good but have 2 flaws. (1) they are fiddly to solder wires onto due to the resistor and LED which, needless to say, fall off when they are heated. A pair of screw terminals would have been a better option for connecting to, and (2) the hole in the tapered grommet is way too big for any normal sized cable you might use. I would redesign the grommet with a smaller opening which you could then trim back if you needed to. They work well enough and are sturdy so worth 4 stars.

Bought these to replace broken plug on my compressor. Did the job.NB. I had trouble getting it apart as you have to take fuse out first, due to it being held by a spring (see last product photo). Found all the bits eventually, after they were fired accross the room. My own stupid fault. You may need to get a replacemrnt fuse depending on amperage of item to be used on.

The product is sturdy as promised but as with all these type of plug it’s compact size & price means that soldering is the practical option. The downside , as mentioned by many, is that you do need to know how to solder and it will be a bit of a fiddly. You will need a small electrical soldering iron, electrical solder with flux core, Emery paper for cleaning & roughening all solder surfaces and it is helpful if you have snipe nosed pliers . You will need to “tin” both surfaces after cleaning. The resistor for the green bulb will come off as you apply heat so holding it and the tinned wire together whilst applying the final solder is helpful. You don’t need the resistor attached if you can do without the green power light.

Good product; has given my tyre inflater a new lease of life. Connections need soldering which is a bit fiddly because it is quite cramped inside the case. I added a short piece of insulation to the back of the -ve terminal as it is quite close to the +ve terminal. The cable is not anchored inside the case so I put a small tie wrap around the cable inside the case to stop it being pulled out and I replaced the 20 amp fuse with the 10 amp fuse from the old plug.