34 Pict-3 Carburetor For VW Beetles Super Beetles 1971-1979 Dual Port 1600cc Air Cooled Type 12V Engine Electric Choke Volkswagen Bug Bus Thing Karmann Ghia Squareback Transporter #113129031K

I had pretty low expectations for this carb, but boy was I surprised! This thing worked great, straight out of the box. Very minimal adjustment and it was up and running with easy starts and no bogging. Highly recommend.

Building a new 1968 vw engine. Don’t want to run dual carbs. Was told that this is the ticket. Haven’t ran it yet.

Good 😊

My old carb on my 1600 was running ok but I wanted to rebuild it and this thing was almost the same price. I see and have heard a lot of folks throw these on without adjustment. Well mine got 4 stars because it was pretty far out of adjustment. Oh it ran alright, but I had to turn in the choke idle adjustment to get it to idle which these are not designed for that. General internet lore all over say 2.5 on both side screws on the left side after you lightly bottom them out, then fine tune from there. My bottom smaller screw was like 1 turn out and my big boy screw was 2. Once at 2.5 each I could back off the choke idle adjustment on the top of the back of the carb, which most people probable use to make it idle. That thing is only supposed to touch and then 1/4 of a turn after the car is completely warmed up. Mine now idles at 850, even with the base settings of 2.5. Now mine is running a little warm which was the same as the old carb, which looks like one of these that's 10 years old. This is where crucial information is missing and I am going to provided, with pictures! It has a 127 main/55 idle installed just like my other carb. It comes with an extra 137/60 jets. The 60 ran awful and with the 127 my car was running hot, 137/55 runs pretty good but is really rich, the temps better but still 229 ish. Now I came to realize in all this that the top down on the vert ,the rain guard, combined with chrome tins was a losing battle. Took off the rain guard and popped the trunk, temps came way down at around 205. So I ordered solex/mukini jets for 10 bucks and I am going to run a 130 now. Probably what it should have came with as an extra as 127 to 137 is a lot. From what I have read in the charts online California came with 127 back in the day which is probably a tad lean for emissions. Do your own research, it is amazing I drove one of these as a kid, pre internet, and all the things I didn't know that I am learning!

I have used several of these on single port vw builds and they work just fine. I hate to say it but it was easier then rebuilding an original that may give you mixed results depending on how worn it is.

For the price it's good deal! V W carburator.

It cured my idle circuit problem of rough/no idle and the flat spot when accelerating. I ordered it from Amazon last night at 6 PM and they delivered it this morning at 4 AM. I inspected inside the bowl and everything was good to go. I left the 127 main jet and the 55 idle jet as received and did not change to the extra 137 main and 60 mm idle jets. I fine tuned the idle air/fuel mixture (smaller screw on driver side of carb) and then set the idle at 900 RPM using the bigger screw. Then I also set the choke/idle screw to match the RPM I had set before using the bigger screw on the driver side. Then I set the SVDA distributor timing at 30 degrees at 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected (with a piece of tape over the end of the port on the card to prevent a vacumn leak). After timing, I removed the tape and connected the vacumn advance hose to the carb vacumn port. Runs great now!

When first installed, my 74 SP would not start when cold. I adjusted the choke screw but it didn't help. The solution was to adjust the electric choke. Loosen the three screws around the round electric coil and rotate it so that the choke is slightly open. Do this when car is cold. The car needs some air to start. If the butterfly is completely closed, there is no air entering the carburetor. Runs fine now.